digplanet beta 1: Athena
Share digplanet:

Agriculture

Applied sciences

Arts

Belief

Business

Chronology

Culture

Education

Environment

Geography

Health

History

Humanities

Language

Law

Life

Mathematics

Nature

People

Politics

Science

Society

Technology

High on K2: Seracs above the Bottleneck

The Bottleneck is a location along the South-East Spur, known also as Abruzzi Spur — the most used route to the top of K2, the second-highest mountain in the world in the Karakoram on the Pakistan/China border.

The Bottleneck is a narrow couloir, which is overhung by seracs from the ice field east of the summit. The couloir is located only 400m below the summit, and climbers have to traverse about 100m exposed to the seracs to pass it. Due to the height (8200m) and the steepness (50-60 degrees) this stretch is the most dangerous part of the route.[1] According to AdventureStats, 13 out of the last 14 fatalities on K2 have occurred at or near the Bottleneck.[2][better source needed]

Despite all the dangers, the Bottleneck is still technically the easiest and the fastest route to the summit. Most climbers choose to use it to minimize time required to spend above 8,000 metres (the "death zone"). The standard route, the Abruzzi (SE) Ridge, as well as the Cesen route (SSE Ridge, which joins SE Ridge), and the American variety on the NE Ridge (traverse across E Face to SE Ridge), all attain the summit via the Bottleneck.

The climbers approaching the bottleneck start from a shoulder, an almost level ground just below 8,000 metres, where typically the highest camp is located. The bottom end of the couloir drops to the south face of the mountain, and it gradually steepens to 60 degrees just below the ice field. It is not possible to climb up the icefield, which rises straight up tens of metres, but one has to traverse leftwards at the bottom of the icefield 100 metres until it is possible to pass the icefield.

It is possible to pass the Bottleneck by rock-climbing the cliffs on the left. Unfortunately their technical difficulty is quite high, so this slow-going alternative has only been done once, by Fritz Wiessner and Pasang Dawa Lama Sherpa in 1939.

On August 4, 2009, Dave Watson became the first person in history to ski down the Bottleneck.[3]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ K2climb.net, The climb from the Pakistan side
  2. ^ K2 fatalities adventurestats.com. Retrieved 18 October 2011.
  3. ^ K2 Ski Expedition 2009


Original courtesy of Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottleneck_(K2) — Please support Wikipedia.
This page uses Creative Commons Licensed content from Wikipedia. A portion of the proceeds from advertising on Digplanet goes to supporting Wikipedia.
1 videos found

https://youtube.com/devicesupport

https://youtube.com/devicesupport http://m.youtube.com

 
1 videos found

5 news items

 
About - News & Issues (blog)
Wed, 17 Feb 2010 23:11:51 -0800

The Bottleneck is the most dangerous part of climbing The Abruzzi Spur. Note the row of climbers traversing left from the top of The Bottleneck below the hanging glacier. Climbing Categories. Learn How to Climb · Let's Go Climbing · Climbing Gear ...
 
Boulder Weekly
Thu, 30 Aug 2012 10:45:34 -0700

"Among mountaineers Sherpas hold nearly mythical status. They have this seemingly superhuman ability to perform incredible climbing feats,” relates Peter Zuckerman, coauthor of Buried in the Sky: The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's ...
 
Everest News
Sat, 08 Aug 2009 10:26:15 -0700

Earlier: Sepp Bachmair, Louis Rousseau and Gerfried are in the basecamp of K2 preparing their journey home. They are exhausted, the hard work through the deep snow costed them lots of energy. On friday they will leave the basecamp over Gondora- La to ...
 
The Star Online
Fri, 28 Sep 2012 16:18:51 -0700

A Port Dickson-born adventurer became the first South-East Asian to summit the world's second-highest peak, K2, a deadly mountain that some think makes Everest looks like child's play. THE exultant climbers – three Sherpas and a Chinese – were ...
 
Aftonbladet
Sat, 02 Aug 2008 22:23:33 -0700

Överlevde Fredrik Sträng var millimetrar från att störta mot döden på K2. Bilden är tagen Överlevde Fredrik Sträng var millimetrar från att störta mot döden på K2. Bilden är tagen i måndags. Foto: PRIVAT. Svenske klättraren Fredrik Sträng, 31, hamnade ...
Loading

Oops, we seem to be having trouble contacting Twitter

Support Wikipedia

A portion of the proceeds from advertising on Digplanet goes to supporting Wikipedia. Please add your support for Wikipedia!

Searchlight Group

Digplanet also receives support from Searchlight Group. Visit Searchlight